21 outubro 2020

Espetada ocupa o 9º lugar num estudo da Taste Atlas


Segundo um estudo da Taste Atlas sobre a gastronomia portuguesa a "Espetada" madeirense ocupa a 9.ª posição dos 12 pratos mais populares a nível nacional. Neste estudo o Bacalhau ocupa o 1º lugar e em último está o Caldo Verde.

Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, 21 de Outubro de 2020.

According to a study by Taste Atlas on Portuguese gastronomy, Madeiran "Espetada" occupies the ninth position of the twelve most popular dishes at the national level of Portuguese gastronomy, in this study Bacalhau occupies the first place and last is Caldo Verde.


Brief historical notes
Manuel Pedro Silva Freitas

Espetada is the term used in Portugal to designate a gastronomic technique in which food is placed on a spit. Although meat is used more frequently, it is possible to use a huge variety of other food products, such as fish, seafood, vegetables, etc. depending only on their availability, culture of each population or locality, or the imagination of the cooks.

This dish is found all over the world and takes on different names depending on the country or ingredients.

However, on Madeira Island, the kebab has some particularities, not only because it assumes itself as the most important typical Madeiran dish, but, in its traditional form, it is made only with beef and the skewers used are manufactured with branches of laurel.

Initially, this was a dish that could only be enjoyed in Madeiran festivals or pilgrimages, where, in addition to the music band, there were plenty of stalls for the sale of meat and regional wine. These festivities of a religious nature, in addition to generating a great movement of people, since the local populations were joined by a large number of outsiders from more distant parishes, many of whom stayed overnight from the day before to the day of the party, constituted moments of particular importance not only for faith, but also for trade.

Indeed, these parties were presented as one of the rare opportunities for a significant number of locals and outsiders to eat beef, a food that due to its cost only went to the table of the less affluent population, "from party to party".

Although some people purchased the meat to be cooked in their homes, many, and especially foreigners, ate it at the sales points, the food and drink stalls, which for this purpose made a fire and skewers available to customers. made from laurel branches, a plant also used to cover the lower part of the flagpoles that decorated the places of the party and to cover the structure of the tents.

He acquired the meat, it was cut into small cubes which were then skewered on the skewer and then sprinkled with table salt. This done, the skewers were placed a few centimeters above the embers produced by the fire, which was continuously fed with wood.

After roasting, it was time to eat. One of the people took the skewer and put it in a position so that the people in the group, usually in a circle and standing, would take the meat off the skewer and eat it. As an accompaniment, wine was served, purchased in one of the various tents in the camp. Although wine was originally the drink used as an accompaniment to kebabs, with the advent and promotion of soft drinks, wine has often been mixed with orange in order to not only reduce its alcohol content, but also diluting the high degree of acidity that most of the wines produced by people and sold in stingrays had. Little by little the beer was also able to implant and even overcome the wine, either ingested in isolation or mixed with oranges, a combination that, like the mixture of wine with oranges, received the epithet of "drink from camp".

Associated for centuries with the festivals, in the 50s, Francisco da Silva Freitas makes, in the parish of Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, his introduction of the kebab in the restoration, through the creation of the first kebab restaurant in Madeira.

Beginning by preparing skewers for a circle of regulars at his commercial establishment and in which the meat of each skewer was shared equally by all, who also paid equally, this practice multiplied soon and little by little it attracted even the small bar that he owned an increasing number of people, a fact that conditioned the appearance of a restaurant.

Although Francisco da Silva Freitas had never been concerned with choosing the name to give to his restaurant, customers soon started referring to it as “Vides”, a fact associated with the type of material with which the brazier was made to bake it. beef. The choice of vides to make the brazier where the meat was roasted had to do with its easy availability in the locality, or it was not the parish of Estreito, an important wine region, or better, the mill of Madeira and also the fact that burned does not give off an odor likely to alter the flavor of the meat. Subsequently the vines would be replaced by pine wood which, despite producing some odor, does not significantly alter the flavor of the meat and has the advantage that the brazier produced is more durable and, therefore, more economically profitable.

After the success of this initiative, in the parish of Estreito, , the kebab as a dish of the Madeiran restoration would quickly spread throughout Madeira, initially in the form of specialty restaurants, some of which still exist today, where the kebab was the single or the most important dish and then, becoming part of the usual restaurant menu.

The fact that it was in the Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, the place where the skewer was first introduced in the Madeiran restoration, gives this parish the status of cradle of the skewer, which means that visiting the island of Madeira and not eating a skewered in the Straits of Câmara de Lobos, it's like going to Rome and not seeing the Pope.

When it was created, the As Vides restaurant was first installed on the edge of what is now called Rua da Igreja, where the building of the Estreito shopping center now stands and where customers ate inside stalls built with laurel branches. Later, the restaurant would move to the premises it currently occupies on Rua da Achada. In this place, following the old tradition, laurel stalls were also built, equipped with tables and chairs, where customers ate. A fire in the meantime that would destroy the tents like the restaurant itself, would lead its owner, in its reconstruction, to choose another type of material.

With the "industrialization" of this dish, the skewers instead of the laurel stick, which gave them a sui generis flavor, started to be made with iron or aluminum and the accompaniment included other ingredients, namely the salad, the potato and the fried corn and the bolo do caco, which, in a way, would replace the homemade bread, sometimes available in the camps. The "take the meat off the skewer and eat it by hand" would be replaced by a fork and knife.

Regarding the seasoning, originally seasoned only with salt, then garlic and eventually the pepper called "da terra", that is, fresh and bay leaves, would be added, whenever the branches of this plant could not be used as a skewer. On the other hand, to ensure a better homogenization of the various seasonings, they started to be mixed with the meat before it was placed on the skewer.

Biographical data of Francisco da Silva Freitas

Francisco da Silva Freitas, was born in the parish of Estreito de Câmara de Lobos, where he was born on September 6, 1922. Having been the youngest son of João da Silva and Antónia de Jesus Figueira, this would end up conditioning his stay in his parents' house, where he would start a family and where, together with his agricultural activity, he would explore a small family bar. In the 50s of the twentieth century, he introduced the kebab, until then only made in festivals, in the Madeiran restaurant, thus emerging his bar, transformed into the restaurant “As Vides” as ex-libris of this innovation.

From her wedding, celebrated on January 17, 1949 with Cecília Gregória de Nóbrega, 8 children would be born, two of whom would end up continuing the restoration activity she created.

Escrito por

A Academia Madeirense das Carnes - Confraria Gastronómica da Madeira é uma associação sem fins lucrativos, que promove e defende a Gastronomia Regional Madeirense e todo o seu partimónio cultura.

0 comentários:


© 2013 Confraria Enogastronómica da Madeira. All rights resevered. Designed by Templateism

Back To Top